WKDK Road Trips
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The “I Could’ve Had a V-8!” Tour of Newberry
(May Road Trip on WKDK)
Last month I was on my way to the radio station to record the road trip. Sue Summer and Jimmie Coggins were on the air talking about the three V’s of visiting Newberry (Vend-a-moo, Vineyard and Very Quaint Shops). The suggestion was made that, if more V’s were available, we could’ve had a V-8. After I stopped laughing at the implied head-tapping among tourists, I decided that the May Road Trip was up to the challenge. I soon realized that there are many more than eight V’s around here, but here are some of my favorites. So, get ready for a different sort of Road Trip. Begin your tour on the Square in Very historic downtown Newberry.
Victorian Homes & Buildings
Yes, Newberry has some beautiful buildings from the era of Queen Victoria. Standing on the square we have the Greek revival Old Court House, the Victorian Opera House, the Romanesque revival Old Newberry Hotel and many storefronts from the era of 1880-1920. Just a few blocks away are streets full of nineteenth and early twentieth century homes and churches. If you want to knock the socks off your guests, try driving a circuit of the downtown. Try heading east on Main Street to about Douglas Street, then turn right. Turn right on Johnstone Street and then left on Calhoun Street. Turn right on Boundary Street and right on College Street. Turn right on Evans Street, then Glenn Street and then Harrington Street. Turn left on Calhoun Street and right on Main Street to return to historic downtown Newberry.
Village Cemetery & Rosemont
If you want to know a community, visit its cemeteries. Fortunately the Village Cemetery fits today’s category. From the Square, drive south on Caldwell Street. Turn left on Coate’s Street. The Village Cemetery is to the left in the bend of the street. Though there are graves all the way out to the street, most of the surviving monuments are near the top of the hill. In 1809, George McCreless gave one acre of land to the town for a public burying ground. In 1846, more land was purchased as the old cemetery became overcrowded. Most of the original markers were wooden and have been lost to time.
From Coate’s Street, turn left on Boundary Street and then right on College Street. Beyond Newberry College on the right is Rosemont Cemetery. Founded in 1863, Rosemont was established to provide more burial space for the growing community. It’s a beautiful place to wander around and admire the carved tombstones while learning a bit of history. As John Chapman put it at the close of The Annals of Newberry: “Of quiet, holy Sabbath days it sometimes gives me a calm, though a melancholy, pleasure to walk and meditate and rest in that Silent City adjoining our town.”
Vend-a-moo
There’s something appealing about a machine that will “moo” at you. Newberry is the dairy capital of South Carolina, and no trip is complete without thanking the cows that have contributed to this title. Driving around the county there are ample opportunities to do just that. The most popular dairy cattle here are Jerseys (think of Elsie and Maggie of Borden’s and Mayfield’s, respectively) and Holsteins (their black and white pattern inspired a computer box). From the Square, drive north on Nance Street, turn left on Pope Street and stay on it as it becomes Bush River Road. The Vend-a-moo is located about three miles out on the right at Bush River Jersey Farm. While you’re out there, enjoy the fields and pastures of the county. Turn right on Beaverdam Creek Road or Gary’s Lane and follow Hwy 76 back to historic downtown Newberry.
Vintage – Museum, Opera House, Antiques & Shops
A lot of territory is covered in this category. A visit to historic Newberry just isn’t complete without a stroll through the shops downtown – antique or otherwise. Whether a performance is in town or not, the Opera House is an interesting place to tour. For informative displays of life in old Newberry, the Museum and the Gauntt House (the oldest house in town) sit on top of the hill at 1503 Nance Street.
Vittles
Round out your trip to Newberry with a meal (or two or so). Whether it’s fine dining, a light snack, or local favorites (like mustard-based barbecue or “liver knieps”), there’s something in Newberry to please every palette.
Vanilla & Other Orchids
Did you know that the vanilla vine is actually an orchid? This is one of the many things you can learn from a visit to Carter & Holmes Orchids. Drive south on Nance Street from the Square and turn right on Boundary Street. As you leave the city, bear to the left on Dennis Dairy Road. Turn left on Mendenhall Road. Carter & Holmes is on the right. After you’ve had your fill of exotic plants, continue on to Hwy 395, turn left and return to historic downtown Newberry.
Virgin Forest
Lynches Woods is one of the natural treasures of Newberry County. This tract of forest consists of over 250 acres which was once part of the Johnstone family estate. In the 1940’s, as part of the CCC, the tract was developed into a park with a five-mile long drive. Today, with additional hiking trails, it forms a leg of the Palmetto Trail. From the Square, drive south on Caldwell Street and turn left on Johnstone Street. At the end of the street (next to the family cemetery) turn right on Hwy 76. Turn left on Walter Cousins Road. Enjoy the winding mountainous road and the scenic woodlands and work your way back to historic downtown Newberry.
Vineyard
All it takes is a short drive out Winnsboro Hwy (Hwy 34) to Dusty Road to visit Newberry’s own Enoree River Winery. Our newest “V” on the list, the gift shop and winery is a nice way to round out a visit to Newberry. Dusty Road continues through to Hwy 219 which becomes Main Street as you get closer to historic downtown Newberry.
That brings to a close this version of the V-8 tour. There are still plenty more V’s to work with and certainly plenty to do and see in Newberry.Of Quakers and the Old Wagon Road
(April Road Trip on WKDK)
Spring is here and everything is green. Fields and forests alike are decked out in the latest seasonal styles. Around every bend in the road something is in bloom. The words of Col. Robert Rutherford recorded in the Annals of Newberry must have referred to this time of year. “South Carolina is the garden-spot of the world, and Newberry the garden-spot of that garden-spot.”
Early settlers to Newberry County arrived here mainly by three ways: by immigration from Europe, by westward movement from established coastal areas and by travelling south on the road from Philadelphia. Today’s trip will consider this third method and some of its possible routes through the county. The great wagon road lead down the Appalachian Mountains from Pennsylvania, Maryland and Virginia and brought settlers to the piedmont of North Carolina, South Carolina and Georgia. The road made its way into South Carolina near York and split, with one branch going to Augusta by way of Camden and Columbia and the other getting there by way of Chester, Newberry and Edgefield. It was along this general route that the Quakers and many Scots-Irish families came to Newberry. While driving today, keep an eye out for road traces, the high-banked ditches that passed for roads in the eighteenth century, as they run parallel to many of the modern roads.
Begin your tour on the Square in historic downtown Newberry. Along the north side of the Square is Boyce Street. This street was named for a successful Newberry merchant, Ker Boyce, who had a brisk trade with Philadelphia through the wagon road. Head east on Main Street. The intersection of Main and College Streets was once called Baltimore Corner because another merchant, William Pinchback, had a store here and traded with Baltimore, MD. On one trip, he returned with a wagon-load of whet-stones which greatly amused the townsfolk. Turn right on College Street. The next street parallel to Main is Friend Street, which was named in honor of the Quakers, the Society of Friends. Turn right on Boundary Street and follow it out as it becomes Hwy 34-121.
It’s impossible to name everything in bloom right now. It’s a good time of year to relax and enjoy the symphony of colors. A few wildflowers to watch for are the blue, purple and white blooms of Ragged Robin, the red trumpets of Wood Bine and the white Dogwood peeking through the woods. On the left, at the intersection of Harold Bowers Road is the old Paysinger House, a typical county farmhouse, with end chimneys and a porch across the front. On the left after Deadfall Road is the Blair-Boozer House. The massive two-stage chimney on the end indicates its early nineteenth century construction.
On the left, just after Long Farm Road, is the site of the Higgins-Werts House which was moved to Lake Murray. The Higgins family operated a ferry across the Saluda River. Turn right on Higgins Ferry Road. Higgins Ferry represents the southern end of the wagon road as it passed out of Newberry County. At the Saluda River, turn around and return to Hwy 121. Turn right. On the right, beyond Long Farm Road, is the Werts House which was begun in 1896. Turn right on Deadfall Road. Turn left on Odell Ruff Road and stay on it as it becomes Dennis Dairy Road. After crossing Bush River, the Quaker Cemetery and the site of the old Quaker Church are on the left. Zachariah Dicks, an itinerant preacher, predicted a great conflict over the issue of slavery. After his predictions, many of the Friends moved west. By 1822, there were no practicing Quakers left in the county. On the right, next to Newberry Outdoor Equipment, is a home which originally belonged to the Coppock family. Turn right on Mendenhall Road. About halfway up the hill on the left is the Ramage family cemetery.
Turn left on Hwy 395.
Turn right on Glenn Street Extension. On the right, in a bend of the road is Ebenezer Methodist Church. Though Methodists in this community were worshipping in their homes as early as 1800, Ebenezer was founded in 1814. The present church building was begun in 1867 and has a nice cemetery next to it. Stay on the road as it becomes Glenn Street. After crossing Hwy 34 Bypass, the Mollohon Mill Village will spring up on either side. The second of Newberry’s mill villages, Mollohon was begun in 1901 on the site of Innisfallen Dairy.
Turn right on Main Street. Most of the large homes in this neighborhood were built in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Turn left on Winnsboro Hwy. On the left, just beyond Whitaker Floor Coverings is the original site of Aveleigh Presbyterian Church. Founded in 1835, the church moved downtown in 1852. Turn left on Mt. Bethel-Garmany Road. A favorite of road trips, this old road closely follows its original trace. It is one of several roads that may have formed the upper portion of the wagon road in Newberry County. Turn left on Hwy 176. On the right is the historical marker for Mount Bethel Academy.
Turn right on Molly’s Rock Road. On the left is Molly’s Rock Recreational Area with its old water pump. Beyond the park, the road bends and the pavement gives way to gravel. This is a portion of the old highway leading from Charleston to Buncombe, NC. It was probably one of the routes taken by the Quakers on their westward trek. Just beyond Mean’s Road, a forest service road angles sharply to the left. This leads to the Mt. Bethel Academy site. Across the road on the right is the site of the Edward Finch House. Finch hosted Francis Asbury in 1793 and gave the land for the academy. Though the Methodist-supported school closed in 1820, its name survived in community schools into the twentieth century. Turn left on Hwy 176 and immediately left on Mt. Bethel-Garmany Road. Turn left on Mt. Pleasant Church Road. On the left, opposite the end of Ringer Road, is the Darby family cemetery. Further down on the left is Mt. Pleasant Methodist Church. Founded in 1822, the present church was built in 1949. Turn left on Old Blair Road. After the first intersection, the Suber Cemetery is off the road to the left. Turn left on Henderson’s Ferry Road. At the end of the road is the old Henderson House, circa 1790. The family operated a ferry on the Enoree River beginning in 1805. Theodosia Burr Alston stayed here on her way back from Philadelphia. Turn around. On the right, behind a granite wall, is the Henderson Cemetery. Return to Old Blair Road. Turn left.
This road closely follows the trace to Ashford’s Ferry on the Broad River. When you get to the end, turn around. Turn left on Fellowship Church Road. On the left is Fellowship Baptist Church. Founded in 1867, this is one of the oldest African-American churches in the county. Turn left on Mt. Pleasant Church Road. Cross Hwy 34 onto Broad River Road (following another old county road). Turn right on St. Matthew’s Church Road. On the right is St. Matthew’s Lutheran Church which was founded in 1827. Turn right on Graham Road.
Turn left on Hwy 34. Driving back toward town, watch out for old farmhouses and beautiful farms. Turn left on Dusty Road. Newberry’s own Enoree River Winery is on the left. Turn right on Hwy 219. On the right at the corner of Cockrell Drive is the Halfacre Cemetery. Stay on Hwy 219 as it becomes Main Street and return to historic downtown Newberry.
A Visit to Rosemont
(March Road Trip on WKDK)
Easter has just passed and spring has sprung. In this season of rebirth it’s time to take a trip that looks at our past and to “visit” some Newberrians that helped shape the community we live in today. It won’t be possible to mention everybody, so today we’ll just hit some highlights.
Begin your tour on the Square in Historic Downtown Newberry. Head south on Caldwell Street. Turn left on Coates Street. The old Village Cemetery is on the hill to the left. In about 1809, George McCreless gave one acre of land to the town for use as a public burying ground. Though later expanded, the old burying ground was almost completely filled by 1860. A new cemetery was built on the other side of town and some of the family graves in the old cemetery were moved to the new one. Newspaper articles of the day describe families carrying their loved ones’ remains down what is now College Street on their way to re-interment in Rosemont. Turn left on Boundary Street. Turn right on College Street.
Just beyond Newberry College, Rosemont Cemetery stretches off to the right. Rosemont, founded on February 6, 1863, was established to relieve the overcrowded conditions of the older Village Cemetery. It has been expanded several times. The south entrance lines up closely with Calmes Street, the original southern boundary of the cemetery. The back street which runs along the crest of the hill marks the old eastern boundary. The northern boundary was just beyond the old north entry (where the other set of granite piers is standing). Enter the cemetery at the southern gate.
The monolithic granite piers which mark the older entrances were a project of the Newberry Civic League. The ones which flank the south entrance bear bronze plaques as memorials. The southernmost pier was placed in memory of Ola Clark Floyd (first president of the Civic League) while its northerly counterpart commemorates Walter Herbert Hunt (first president of the Cemetery Association). Turn left on the front street. On the right, in the Norris plot are some of the graves which were moved from the old Buzzardt Cemetery for the construction of Komatsu. Also on the right (since the left is just crape myrtles and College Street), under the lone Magnolia tree, is the third and final resting place of Calvin Crozier (1840-65). Crozier was a Confederate soldier heading home to Texas at the end of the War who was killed by Union soldiers stationed in Newberry. The full story is inscribed on the monument itself. A short way beyond the Crozier plot is the Blease family plot where is buried Coleman Livingston Blease (1867-1942) who was Governor of South Carolina from 1910-1914. While visiting Rosemont, be sure to notice all the iron crosses which mark the graves of Confederate soldiers.
The southern pier of the north gate of the cemetery is a memorial to Ione Fant McCaughrin, a benefactor of the cemetery. Turn right on the road from the north gate and right again on the next cross road. On the right is the Dickert plot where Col. David Augustus Dickert (1844-1917) is buried. Col. Dickert was in charge of the Pomaria Lancers when he rode his horse up the steps of the Old Court House. The next plot over is the resting place of Colin C. Davis (1859-1916) and his family. As a master builder and contractor, Davis built many of the grand homes and churches in downtown Newberry. The monuments in this plot are made of pink granite. Down the road on the left (between the holly trees) is the angel statue. According to the inscription, the statue represents the image in the minds of her husband and children of Nina Dominick Vandiver who is buried here. At the end of the street, turn left. On the left, now the Bowers’ plot, was a space originally assigned for the use of Luther Chapel (now Redeemer). Turn left again on the next cross street.
On the left is a Buzzhardt family plot which has more of the graves which were moved from the site of Komatsu. On the right is the Holmes family plot which features a beautiful cross of white marble decorated with a spray of passion flowers. Just beyond it is the Evans plot. Herbert H. Evans (1852-1925) was mayor of Newberry in 1895. (He was the one that cut down all the walnut trees from Main Street.) Mary Ann Butler Evans, who founded the Public Lounge, is also buried here. In the center of the old part of the cemetery is the gazebo. On the plat of Rosemont in the museum, it is called a “rest house.” Near the end of the street on the right is a granite pedestal with a cross that serves as a memorial to Rev. George William Holland (1838-95) who was president of Newberry College from 1878-1895. Straight ahead at the end of the street is the Gauntt family mausoleum. It was built in 1916 and has a bronze door on the front.
Turn right on the paved road and right again on the next street. On the left, in the Wells family plot, is the grave of Osborne Wells (1831-1916). As a local contractor, Wells was responsible for the decoration in the pediment of the Old Court House as well as the construction of the Opera House and the original building at Newberry College. Also on the left is the O’Neall family cemetery which was moved to Rosemont from the Village Cemetery. Chief among those buried here is John Belton O’Neall (1793-1863) of Annals of Newberry fame (among many other things) and his wife Helen Pope O’Neall (1797-1871) for whom Helena is named. Many of the older monuments in Rosemont are either altar tombs (box-like structures topped with a marble slab) or obelisks (tapered stone shafts reminiscent of classical antiquity). Near the end of the street on the left is Gist-McCaughrin plot. Among those buried here is Robert Lusk McCaughrin (1834-1882), first president of Newberry Cotton Mills. Turn left on the paved street and left again on the next cross street.
On the right, under the holly tree, are some old altar tombs which comprise a Summer family plot moved from the Village Cemetery. On the left in another Summer plot is Dr. Mamie Summer (1888-1959), without whom Newberry would not be the community it is today. On the right is a plot belonging to Central Methodist Church. Next to it is the Coppock family plot where E. S. Coppock, who owned the house where the museum is located, is buried. On the right, a large obelisk marks the grave of Robert Moorman (1814-73) who was one of the signers of the Ordinance of Secession from Newberry. In the Stewart family plot on the right is a monument to Dr. Daniel Dobson (1822-48). Dobson came to Newberry as a school teacher circa 1840 and later studied medicine and practiced here. He died shortly after retrieving his friend John Stewart’s body from Mexico where he had died in the Mexican War. Both were originally buried in Aveleigh Cemetery on the old Winnsboro Highway.
Also on the right is the Fair family mausoleum. Built of massive blocks of rough-cut granite, it is the resting place of Simeon Fair (1801-73) who was also a signer of the Ordinance of Secession. On the left is the grave of Lambert J. Jones (1813-1894), a prominent Newberry lawyer. His house stood in the 2100 block of Main Street. Jones Street, which was originally the lane to his barn, is named for him. At the end of the street, turn right on the paved street and left on the next street (this one runs along the crest of the hill. There is a beautiful view of the new baseball stadium from here. On the right, inside a brick enclosure is the Calmes family cemetery. Not originally part of Rosemont, it pre-dates the larger cemetery. Among those buried here is William Calmes, Sr. (died 1836) who fought in the American Revolution. Follow the road as it bends to the left. On the right is a drop-off to the newer section called Springdale.
At the end of the road, make a sharp right on the southern boundary road of Springdale. Turn left on the third street. On the left are a series of slab tombstones which were moved from Aveleigh Cemetery. Among them is the grave of David Boozer (1788-1850) whose second wife was the subject of much gossip in antebellum Newberry and eventually inspired the books La Belle and Another Jezebel. At the end of the row, turn left and follow this street to the northernmost gate of the cemetery. Turn left on College Street and return to Historic Downtown Newberry.
A Trip to Maybinton, Whitmire and Back
(February Road Trip on WKDK)
The Road Trip of the Month started this month back in 2002. In celebration of this anniversary, we’ll be taking a look back to the first of these trips. The original road trip was a search for spring bulbs and consisted of driving directions only with no historical comment. This month’s trip follows the same route but with commentary added.
As you drive around the county this month, watch out for beautiful spring bulbs, including: Jonquils (bright yellow flowers with slender dark green stems and leaves, and a sweet, rich fragrance); Yellow Narcissus (star-shaped yellow flowers borne in clusters – smaller than a Jonquil but twice as fragrant); Butter-and-Eggs (also called buttercups, loose clusters of petals ranging in color from greenish-white to yellow with blue-green foliage and no fragrance); Snow Drops (stalks of bell-shaped white flowers with green dots, rising from a cluster of dark green leaves); and a myriad of naturalized Daffodils and Narcissuses. Other flowers to watch for are: Quince (a prickly shrub with white, pink or red flowers); Forsythia (often called “yellow bells” for the shape of the tiny yellow flowers); Spirea (a shrub with innumerable tiny white flowers bursting from its branches – the double form is called “Bridal Wreath”); and Flowering Almond (a low-growing shrub with neon pink pompon-shaped flowers). Growing along the edges of gardens and embankments, the tiny pink, purple and white blooms of Thrift can also be seen this time of year.
Begin your tour on the Square in Historic Downtown Newberry. Head east on Main Street. Look for the traditional spring flowers listed above as you drive by the beautiful homes of the Main Street Historic District. Bear left on Winnsboro Hwy. Turn left on Mt. Bethel-Garmany Road. This road is a favorite of road trips because it closely follows the trace of one of the oldest roads in the county. After crossing I-26, watch for the old Mt. Bethel-Garmany School building on the left. Garmany School was established near here before the Civil War. The present building (now a community center) was the result of the merger of Mt. Bethel, Garmany and McCrary Schools in 1918. Further down the road on the left is Lebanon Methodist Church. The church was established in 1875, and the old cemetery is down the road to the left of the present building. On a bend in the Mt. Bethel-Garmany Road to the right is the Chalmers-Brown House. Begun in the 1830’s, the house was enlarged with the addition of a portico around 1850. This time of year large outcrops of granite can be seen in the fields and forests along this road. Jog across Hwy 176 to stay on Mt. Bethel-Garmany Road.
Across from the end of the road is the site of the Pope House. Though the house is long gone, the spring bulbs serve as reminders of the house site. Turn left on Mt. Pleasant Church Road. Down the road on the right is a mercantile building that served as Reese’s Store. On the left is the Graham House which is typical of nineteenth century farm houses in the county. Though usually one room in width, these house are usually several rooms in length with chimneys at each end. The presence of two front doors was common here and in the lowcountry. On the left, just beyond Ringer Road, on a little hill is the Darby Cemetery.
Turn left on Maybinton Road. Cross the Enoree River. The name “Enoree” comes from an Indian word meaning “River of Muscadines.” Turn right on Tyger River Road. This intersection is near the center of the present Maybinton Community. Once a prominent plantation center, Maybinton is now mostly part of the Sumter National Forest. The new Fire Department building is on the right, next to the park. Turn left on Peter’s Creek Road. The Hardy House, circa 1825, is on the right. Built along the old river road, the house retains much of its original appearance and setting. When we cross into Union County, the road name changes to Glymph Road. Like Newberry, Union was one of the counties formed from the Ninety Six District in 1785. Turn right on Maybingdon Road (they misspell it in our neighboring county). Near here on the right is the site of The Oaks, the plantation home of Dr. Douglass and one end of the tale of the Hound of Goshen. On the right is St. Matthew’s AME Zion Church. Turn left on Hwy 72-121.
Cross the Enoree Rive back into Newberry County at Whitmire. Stay on Hwy 72. Established as a trading post on the Old Buncombe Road in the 1790’s, the “pearl of the piedmont” became a railroad depot in the 1891. As the road merges with Church Street, Whitmire Methodist Church will be on the left with its imposing porticoes. Founded in 1892, it is the oldest congregation in town. Turn left on Railroad Avenue (before the bridge) and left again on Main Street. Most of the downtown was rebuilt after a fire in 1916. Embedded in the unusually high sidewalks are iron rings which were used as hitches for horses. On the left at the intersection of Gilliam Street is the town hall, built in 1923. On the right is St. Timothy’s Lutheran Church, which was founded in 1939. The last building on the right was built in 1903. Originally an office for the mill, it has impressive decorative brickwork. At the end of Main Street stands First Baptist Church which moved to the downtown in 1902. Turn right on Glenn Street and then left on Park Street. Along this street stand some of the supervisors’ homes for the mill. At the end of the street is the site of the Glenn-Lowry Mill which is currently being demolished. Turn right on Central Avenue (Hwy 66). The next few blocks pass through “old hill,” the older section of the mill village. As you leave town, keep an eye out for Mollohon, the Herndon House, which was begun in the 1790’s. The massive Doric portico was part of an 1850’s remodeling. Turn left on Old Newberry Hwy.
Turn right on Tabor Cemetery Road. Near here was Mt. Tabor Methodist Church, an antebellum congregation that later merged with the church in Whitmire. Visit the old cemetery and follow the road back around. (It becomes Jack Wilson Road before returning to Old Newberry Hwy.) At the end of Old Newberry Hwy, turn right on Hwy 121. New Hope Baptist Church, founded in 1890, is on the right. Cross Indian Creek. Turn right on Old Whitmire Hwy. This section of the county is known as Long Lane. In the early years, the road cut through several large pastures, producing a long lane. On the right is Renwick Grove Baptist Church. On the left, just beyond Seymore Branch Road is the Dr. G. W. Glenn House. Glenn Street in Newberry was named for Dr. Glenn and his old house is typical of Newberry County farmhouses from the early years of the nineteenth century. In the woods to the right, across from the end of Folk Road is Tea Table Rock. This large granite outcrop is the site where, according to local tradition, ladies of the area entertained Sir Banastre Tarleton with a “tea” and delayed his arrival at an important Revolutionary War battle. At the end of the road, cross Hwy 76 and turn right on College Street. This intersection, sometimes called “Devil’s Crossroads” is the site of Blackjack Tavern, which appears on many old maps of the area. Coming back into town, you will pass Rosemont Cemetery. Take a moment to stroll through the cemetery and return to historic downtown Newberry.
January Road Trip
(January Road Trip on WKDK)Winter in Newberry County is an ideal time to study the wide vistas of our hilly topography and to notice things that are often hidden by lush foliage. The clear blue skies, picturesque bare trees and the dark green of pine forests form an excellent backdrop for a study of how the built environment relies on the underlying terrain. So bundle up for the chilly weather, because this is the perfect season for finding house sites, cemeteries and road traces and for enjoying the view from hilltops.
Begin your tour on the Square in historic downtown Newberry. Since the Square and the old part of the downtown are laid out on the declivity (downward slope) of a hill, there are not as many wide sweeping vistas that would be found on a hilltop. Still, glancing through spaces between buildings and along the cross streets you can see the crest of the downtown hill and three others. From the west end of the Square (Nance Street side) the top of the hill where Newberry Cotton Mills stood is visible. Although the mill is no longer there, the peaked roof of the McWhirter House, circa 1860, is clearly visible. The land for the mill was purchased from the McWhirter family, and the house was purchased by the mill in 1891 for supervisors’ quarters. Gazing northward, the eye is drawn across the Scott’s Creek trestle to the next hill, where the Museum and the Gauntt House (Newberry’s oldest dwelling) are clearly visible. The crest of that hill is punctuated by a communications tower next to Newberry Elementary School. Along the Boyce Street side of the Square a vista opens up next to Delamater’s (near where the old Locust Tree once stood). The spire of Wiles Chapel and the tower of Keller Hall mark the site of Newberry College.
From the Square, turn right (north) on Nance Street. Turn left on Cornelia Street and pull into the drive of the Newberry County Museum. Though not
on the top of the hill, the Museum offers one of the best panoramic views of the downtown. This time of year, houses from Boundary to Harrington Streets can be seen along with the skyline of the business district. Among the many notable buildings seen are the tower of the Opera House, Central Methodist Church, the old Newberry Hotel, the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer, the Parr Building, the County Court House, Newberry A R P Church and Bethlehem Baptist Church.
Return to Cornelia Street and turn left. On the right is the Queen Anne style Wilson House which was built circa 1900. Turn right on Moon Street and left on Cline Street. Turn left on Vincent Street. On the left are two raised cottages built in the 1870’s. They are similar to the ones on Harrington Street. This type of house, with the living spaces raised to the second floor, was once more common in Newberry than it is now. Turn right on Crosson Street and left on Drayton Street. On the right is Willowbrook Park, part of the mill village for Newberry Cotton Mills. Driving through this neighborhood, look for rows of nearly-identical one and two story houses. Turn right on Main Street and left on Langford Street. While coming down the hill, look to the right to see a normally hidden view of Oak Grove (or Gildercrest, if you prefer). Turn right on O’Neall Street and left on Jessica Avenue. On the right is the imposing Doric portico of Oak Grove, built by Frederick Nance in 1822 and attributed to Robert Mills. Turn right on Boundary Street and follow it out of town as it becomes Hwy 34-121.
Driving through the county in winter is a good time to find old house sites. This stretch of road is a good practice because there are several sites on both sides of the road where the old house is still standing. Look at these sites and imagine them without buildings. What is left are large trees (often oak), evergreen shrubbery, old bulbs (which we’ll see next month) and maybe a pile of brick or stone from a chimney. The small cluster of large trees (sometimes called sentinels) is an important clue for house sites. Left to their own devices, oaks will reproduce rapidly, becoming a grove or a forest. To see a few old trees clustered together means that something was there to keep the young trees from growing up.
Turn left on Deadfall Road. A few miles down the road on the left, New Chapel Methodist Church is clearly visible through the bare trees. Driving along past farms, forests, churches and old house sites it’s easy to understand why this area was called Utopia. At the end of the road, turn left on Hwy 395. Something else to look for in winter are road traces which are more visible now that the underbrush is gone. Old roads, or traces, were little more than ditches with high banks. They are often visible running parallel to existing roads or crossing them near creeks. Since most creeks were forded, the trace will run alongside the creek and then turn back up to the ridge. Modern bridges usually go straight across. Turn right on Clara Brown Road. Turn right on Schumpert Mill Road. On the left is the Schumpert-Cousins House with its fancy Victorian gingerbread. This road and the next we’ll turn down closely follow the old traces while running roughly parallel to Bush River. Turn right on Cannon Swamp Road. Nearing the crest of the hill there is a good view of the circa 1840 Werber House. The narrow house with end chimneys is typical of Newberry County farm houses. Turn right on Hwy 395. On the left is the Buzhardt House. Like the Werber House, it is typical of the homes built in Newberry in the mid-nineteenth century. The picket fence with granite posts was found surrounding many Newberry dooryards.
Turn right on St. Luke’s Church Road. Coming down the hill, look off to the left to catch a glimpse of the Rock House. Built by Jacob Hoffman in the 1750’s, it is probably the oldest building in the county. Nearer the road, under a large Cedar tree is the Kinard-Nobles Cemetery. Further down the road on the right is the Dunker Cemetery. Bear left on Fire Tower Road. Along this road examples of everything we’ve mentioned so far can be seen. Sometimes the trees around a newer house are much older than the house itself. Historians have a saying about this: “a good site is a good site.” Often new houses are built on the sites of older ones.
Turn left on Stoney Hill Road. Cross Hwy 391 onto Mt. Pilgrim Church Road. Several miles down the road on the right (at the crest of a hill) stands Mt. Pilgrim Lutheran Church. This church was built in 1934 and is constructed of field stones. Hold onto your horses as you go down one of the steepest grades in the county. With the land rising sharply, you can tell we’re getting close to Little Mountain. On the right is Oak Grove Presbyterian Church. Founded shortly after the Civil War, it is one of the oldest African-American churches in the county. A Rosenwald school associated with it stands across the road. Turn right on Hwy 76. As you approach the town of Little Mountain, there are several views of the mountain itself to the right. At over 800 feet, it is the highest point east of Greenville. Take a sharp left on Mt. Tabor Road. Off to the left is a really nice view of the mountain.
Mt. Tabor Lutheran Church (on the left) was founded in 1880. Tradition has it that the present church, circa 1925, was built from revenue made from eggs laid on Sundays. At the church, cross the railroad tracks to the right and turn left on Kibler’s Bridge Road. At Berley-Boland Road, turn right to stay on Kibler’s Bridge Road. The bridge is over Crim’s Creek which winds its way through Pomaria and Peak before joining the Broad River. Not far from the bridge, the mid-nineteenth century Kibler House is on the right. Two smaller houses beyond it (across from Mid Carolina Country Club) may date to the eighteenth century. Turn right on Hwy 773. On the right across I-26 is St. Paul’s Lutheran Church. Founded in 1761 it is the oldest Lutheran congregation that has always been in Newberry County. Turn left on Jollystreet Road.
At the intersection of Old Jollystreet Road on the right is the old Jollystreet School. Just before the intersection of Bachman Chapel Road on the left is a Kinard family cemetery. Continue along Jollystreet Road and turn right on Claude Counts Road. Watch out for red mud. As the road turns away from
I-26, it becomes Bearington Road. On the right will be the Cannon’s Creek A R P Cemetery (left). Although the congregation, the oldest A R P Church in the county, moved to a new location on Hwy 76 in 1948, this church dates back to the 1770’s. Take a moment to wander around the old cemetery to look at the monuments and read the inscriptions. It’s hard to believe that the Newberry Industrial Park is at the top of the next hill. At the end of the road turn right on Jollystreet Road. Turn right on Hwy 76 and left on Adelaide Street and return to historic downtown Newberry.
December Road Trip
(December Road Trip on WKDK)Begin your tour on the Square in Historic Downtown Newberry. The Square was the site of three court houses prior to the Old Court House. Until the Old Court House was built in 1852, the jail also stood on the Square. This was the governmental center of the county (even if it wasn’t exactly the geographic center) and all official measurements were made in distance from the court house; hence, the granite mile marker, unearthed in the 1970's, shows the distance to the capital, to the neighboring seats of Edgefield and Laurens and to Hamburg a settlement on the Savannah River.
Head west on Main Street. Turn right on Nance Street. This street was named for Frederick Nance who, according to tradition, was the first person to buy a lot in the court house village. The village was laid out in a regular grid of streets around the Square. At the corner of Harrington Street, you’ll see the Opera House parking lot to the right. This is the site of an old jail. When the Old Court House was built, the jail was moved off of the public square and built on Harrington Street. In 1918, a third jail was built here. At the time, this was the end of McKibben Street and not the intersection of Nance. (The streets were switched when Hwy 395 was widened in 1973.) That sturdy jail was described as the safest in the state. Pieces of its intact foundation still remain below the parking lot (which partly explains why the lot is so much higher than the surrounding land).
To the left you will see parts of the old water works with the Newberry County Museum on top of the hill behind the Public Safety Complex. The Gauntt House, circa 1808, (the oldest residential building in town) sits in front of the Museum. It was moved to this site in the 1970's from its original location on College Street across from the Post Office. At the base of the hill, behind the fire station, is a granite-lined pond which was part of the original landscaping for the water works. This section of Nance Street became a popular neighborhood known as Brooklyn. It was formed when several farms were subdivided in the 1870's to make room for the growing town. On the hill to the left is Newberry Elementary School which started out as Newberry High School in 1926. Across from the school is Margaret Hunter Park and its frisbee golf course.
To the right, at the corner of Fair Street is the Wells House. Built circa 1855, this house is built on a raised foundation and has unusual English Gothic arches. It was the home of Newberry master builder Osborne Wells (who is remembered for his design in the pediment of the Old Court House). Turn right on Pope Street. Wells Park is a subdivision which was laid out in the 1940's. This is the creek where, according to local tradition, a Spanish helmet dating to the time of Desoto was discovered in the 1890's. Turn left on College Street. As you turn the corner, Newberry College can be seen off to the right. This Lutheran-supported school was founded in 1856. Turn right on Cemetery Street (or, better yet, turn into the cemetery and visit Newberrians of Newberry past). Rosemont Cemetery (above) was established in 1862 since the old village cemetery at the end of Coates Street was overcrowded. Turn right on Luther Street. Down a grove of Bradford Pears along what used to be Bachman Street is a bronze bust of Rev. Dr. John Bachman, one of the original trustees of the college.
Turn left on Evans Street. As you’ve probably guessed, most of the older streets in town were named for families. (No, there wasn’t a “Main” family or a “College” family, but these streets were originally “Pratt” and “Adam,” respectively.) This street ran through land belonging to H. H. Evans, who was Mayor of Newberry in the 1890's. He was the one responsible for chopping down all the walnut trees in town from Walnut Street to the railroad tracks. According to a newspaper article, the task was accomplished in the span of a week. It so altered the face of the downtown that families coming into town on Saturday didn’t realize they were in Newberry. Turn right on Glenn Street and cross the north fork of Scott’s Creek. The town was largely settled around the north and south forks of this creek. The forks meet west of town near the site of Langford’s Mill before joining Bush River.
Turn right on Harrington Street. This area of town was developed beginning in the 1870's. There is an eclectic mix of nineteenth and twentieth century homes in this neighborhood. To the left, behind some hedges, stands a one and a half story frame building which once housed the Newberry Male Academy. The school (the Male and Female Academies) was housed in various places over time. This one, now a residence, was built in the 1870's. Further down the street on the left are two raised cottages which were also built in the 1870's. These homes are built like those in the Lowcountry with the principle rooms on the upper floor. On the right, set back from the street is the Maybin-Pool House which was built in 1871 by A. H. Maybin and later remodeled by the Pools with work by C. C. Davis.
Turn left on Calhoun Street. (Can you be a city in South Carolina without a Calhoun Street?) Remember the “C” in John C. Calhoun is for “Caldwell,” another old Newberry name. Though ravaged by the great fire of 1907, there are some really great old houses in these next few blocks. On the right, Aveleigh Presbyterian Church is the oldest Presbyterian Church in town. It was originally established in 1835 one mile west on the road to Ashford’s Ferry (about where Whitaker’s Floor Coverings is now). It has been on this site since 1852. The Newberry A. R. P. Church is on the left at the corner of Main Street. Built in 1907, this church replaced an earlier one on Thompson (now Lindsay) Street. Founded in 1854, that church burned in the 1907 fire. On the right is St. Luke’s Episcopal Church which was rebuilt after the tornado of 1984. At the corner of Friend Street stands the Floyd-Carpenter House with its imposing Corinthian portico.
Cross Johnstone Street and bear to the right on Boundary Street (so-named because it was on the edge of the original village). On the left, facing Johnstone Street is “Coateswood” which was the home of Job Johnstone, an influential nineteenth-century Newberry lawyer. (One of his many influences was getting an extra “e” added to the family name.) Down the street on the left is the Mower House. Another C. C. Davis design, the house features a wrap-around porch, turrets, fine woodwork and everything you’d expect to find in a grand Queen Anne style home. Also to the left is the Francis Higgins House. Begun in 1820, it was one of the first large homes in town. To the right is the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer. Founded in 1853 as Luther Chapel, the present modern church (circa 1964) incorporates the bell from the original church and some stained glass from the 1897 church.
Turn left on Caldwell Street. On the right is First Baptist Church. Founded in 1832, it is the oldest congregation in town. Across the street to the left is the Z. F. Wright House with its imposing Corinthian columns. Wright was Mayor of Newberry as well as director of the Commercial Bank and Newberry Cotton Mills. From here to the south fork of Scott’s Creek is Graveltown. Named for its proximity to the quarry of Leavell & Speers,
Graveltown is an African-American neighborhood laid out in the late 1860's, just after the Civil War. Turn left on Coates Street. Coates Street is named for John Coate who gave the land for the court house and square. One of the traditional boundaries to Graveltown is the Village Cemetery (right). When you get to the grassy part, cut left across the lower cemetery and head up to the top of the hill.
In 1809, George McCreless gave one acre of land on Coates Street to serve as the Village Cemetery. In 1846, two additional acres were purchased for the then overcrowded cemetery. The cemetery fell into disuse after the establishment of Rosemont in 1863. In 1939, a city ordinance was passed prohibiting the use of the old cemetery for burial purposes except in walled family plots. Although some of the graves were later moved to Rosemont, the absence of visible grave markers in the bulk of the old cemetery suggests that most of the old markers were wood and have long since disappeared. Go up to the crest of the hill to see some of the tombstones.
Across from the cemetery is Boundary Street School. In 1890 the first free public school in Newberry was built on this site. Though the old building is no longer there, the bell is still preserved in a tower by the entrance. Continue on Coates Street. Turn left on Main Street and return to Historic Downtown Newberry.
A Thanksgiving Road Trip
(November Road Trip on WKDK)This time of year, the last colors of fall are falling off to reveal bare branches and evergreens. Buildings and houses are sprouting colorful garlands, bows and fanciful characters as we approach the Christmas season. This is a time of harvest, thanksgiving and family. So, while the family is in town, take a road trip through Newberry County by starting on the Square in Historic Downtown Newberry.
While on the Square, remember that the Old Court House, circa 1851, was designed by Columbia architect Jacob Graves in the Greek revival style. In 1879, Osborne Wells added the colorful decoration in the tympanum of the pediment. The design represents an allegory of the Scales of Justice as seen through the eyes of the era of Reconstruction. The American Eagle (looking very vulture-like) and representing the Federal Government has uprooted a Palmetto tree (forming the fulcrum of the scales) representing South Carolina. In the branches, a dove of peace with an olive branch is unable to balance the scales which are tipped by a Gamecock representing our defiant spirit.
>From the Square, turn left on Nance Street and continue as it becomes Hwy 395. On the right, just beyond Mendenhall Road is Hartford Community Center. Established in 1870 in the old Universalist Church (which in turn was an outgrowth of the Dunker Church), the present structure was built in 1924 as Hartford School. Just beyond it on the left is the Paysinger-Lester House, circa 1915. Down the road to the right is the old Buzzardt House, circa 1840, with its end chimneys and massive transom and sidelights at the front door. It is typical of the old farm houses found in Newberry County. On the right, opposite the end of Cannon Swamp Road, is the Werber House, circa 1846. This house was built by a German immigrant, Dr. Werber, who experimented in contour terrace farming for soil conservation. Cross Bush River.
Just after Dennis Dairy Lane on the right is the Isaac Herbert Boulware House, circa 1884, at Utopia Farm (you are now entering Utopia Community). Turn right on Deadfall Road. On the right is Hannah School, directly across from Hannah AME Church. Both the school and the church trace their origins to the 1870's when they were located down Hannah Church Road. Both institutions were moved to the present site in the 1930's when the Rosenwald school was built. In the 1960's Hannah was consolidated into Silverstreet School. Cross Beaverdam Creek. Off the road to the left is the Dr. D. A. Cannon House, circa 1870. This was once the home of the Utopia Post Office. Off to the right is New Chapel Methodist Church. Established before 1820 near the Saluda River, the congregation later moved to the present site and built the current church in 1879. A small Sunday School building stands next to the church.
Cross Hwy 121. Opposite the end of Werts Road was the site of Head’s Tavern. Bear to the left onto Main Street as you approach Silverstreet. Turn right on Long Street, left on Woodland Road and left again on Church Street, putting you in front of Silverstreet Lutheran Church. Though its roots go back to the Deadfall Mission Church of 1871, Silverstreet Lutheran was organized in 1908. The present church was built in 1949. Turn right on Lake Street. At the end of the street is the site of Silverstreet Graded School which was begun in 1912. To the right is the Gymnasium and Cafeteria annex which was added in 1941 by the WPA. Turn left on School Street. Immediately to the left is the Auditorium which was built in 1926. Turn right on Main Street at the Post Office. As you leave town, bear slightly to the right onto Silverstreet Road.
Turn right on Trinity Church Road. On the right, at the corner of Trinity Springs Road is Trinity Methodist Church. This congregation was established in 1836 when three older churches in the area merged. Turn right on Belfast Road and immediately left on Bel Ivy Road. Be sure to “moo” at the cows. Turn right on Sterling Road. Turn right on Rocky Creek Road. At the intersection of Beaverdam Creek Road on the right stands the old Gilder House which was begun circa 1830. Turn left on Beaver Dam Creek Road. Cross Bush River. Turn left on Bush River Road.On the left after the Fire Station is the Braswell House which was built in the 1850's. To the right will be Bush River Baptist Church, an African-American congregation which split from the old church after the War Between the States. Ahead on the left is Bush River Baptist Church. Its old cemetery is on the left just before you get to the church. Founded circa 1771, this is the “mother church” of many Baptist congregations in the area. Turn right on Crowder Road. Turn right on Bush River Road. On the right is Valley Farm, the Smith House, built circa 1880. Turn right on Hwy 560. Cross Bush River. This stretch of the highway runs along the line with Laurens County, so Newberry is on the right and Laurens is on the left.
Kinards was established as a depot on the Newberry and Laurens Railroad in 1854. It was named for Captain John Martin Kinard. Turn right on Carlisle-Oxner Road. On the right is an old wooden general store. This was originally M. W. Oxner & Sons and was built in 1907. It is similar to wooden stores that lined many streets in downtown Newberry prior to fires in the last quarter of the nineteenth century. Ahead, on the right is Sharon Methodist Church. Founded in 1854, this handsome gothic church was built in 1905. Captain Kinard is buried in the cemetery behind the church. Return to Hwy 560, turn right. Cross the railroad tracks and turn right on Hwy 76. As you leave town, the Summer-Smith House will be visible to the right. Built by Jacob Summer in 1854, it is a typical Newberry farmhouse. On the left is
the Gary House (called “Oakdale”) which was built circa 1855. Watch out for fields of cotton in this part of the county. Even when the field has been harvested, there is still a frost-like residue of cotton standing out against the red clay. A couple of miles down the road on the left stands the Mc Crackin House, which received its grand porticoes during a Cam Davis remodeling circa 1900.
Turn left on St. James Church Road. Straight ahead is St. James Lutheran Church. Founded in 1840 as Liberty Hill, the congregation moved to Jalapa in 1889 and became St. James. The present church was built in 1942. Turn left on Jalapa Road. Turn right on Beth Eden Church Road. On the left, at the corner of Monument Road is the monument which stands in memory of the men killed when two B-25's collided in 1943. Turn right on Monument Road. Monument Road is a favorite of road trips. The wildlife and natural beauty of the forest combine with the rough character of the road to make a very picturesque drive. Unfortunately, the dry weather means that natural waterways are low or non-existent. Look out for wildlife while crossing the three one lane bridges over Indian Creek.
Turn right on Newberry Hwy. Turn right on Hwy 121 and then turn left on Hwy 176. Cross Kings Creek. Turn left on Molly’s Rock Road. After you pass the park, the road follows very closely to the trace of the old Buncombe Road. This
was a branch of the Wilderness trail which originated in Pennsylvania and brought many settlers to western South Carolina in the late 1700's. In the woods to the left is Molly’s Rock (photo at right). This rock formation is part of the granite ridge that runs across the county. It is the setting of local legends about Molly who is said to have lived on the rock and collected water in a natural basin at the top.
Cross Hwy 176 onto Mount Bethel-Garmany Road and enjoy the scenery as you return to Historic Downtown Newberry.
Newberry County's Ghosts and Legends
(October Road Trip on WKDK)There is a little chill in the air as Fall flourishes and Winter begins to draw near. Trees have started to lose their leaves as a multitude of green shades change to gold, russet, scarlet and (thanks to the drought) brown. As the days grow shorter and night comes sooner, it is time to explore tales that offer a certain shiver and chill of their own — time to explore the darker side of history and nearly-forgotten lore. An important aspect of a successful ghost story is a convincingly eerie setting. As we drive through the byways of Newberry County today, be aware of ways in which our beautiful landscape can be downright spooky at times. All it takes are a few long shadows, the fog rising from a pasture pond or an abandoned farm to set the stage for a ghostly encounter. Today we’re going to visit places associated with some of Newberry’s many ghosts and legends.
Begin your tour on the Square in Historic Downtown Newberry. But, before you go anywhere, have a look at the Opera House. Since its completion in 1882, the Newberry Opera House has dominated the skyline downtown. G. L. Norman designed this imposing civic building to house city offices and serve the theatrical needs of the community. Now, of course, after the renovations were completed in 1998, the Opera House serves as a regional center for the arts. There’s something about the cavernous space of an auditorium and the seemingly endless corridors backstage that set the imagination in motion for a ghost story. No details are known about the eerie presence that has been seen and felt on the stage and in the balcony of the Newberry Opera House. Many volunteers and visitors have experienced something, but, whether it is a spirit from the days of the traveling shows or a relative newcomer from the renovations, no one is certain.
Head west on Main Street. Turn left on Nance Street and right on Boundary Street. As you leave town, bear left on Dennis Dairy Road. Before you get to Bush River on the right is the Quaker Cemetery (an historical marker points to the location). The “Phantom Rider of Bush River” is a story associated with the Quaker settlement near Bobo’s Mill (a mill on Bush River between Dennis Dairy Road and Hwy 395). The tale was first published in The Rising Sun, one of Newberry’s ante-bellum newspapers, on April 25, 1860. It is one of the oldest South Carolina tales to survive in written form. The story is set at the time of the American Revolution. Newberry’s loyalties were split three ways — patriots, loyalists and the Quakers. Their beliefs forbade taking part in the conflict. Thus the love shared by a young Quaker girl and a young patriot was kept secret. When the tides of war drew close to the upcountry, the young soldier followed the army, but he vowed to return to his love in one year — dead or alive. The year passed and, on the appointed day, the young girl anxiously waited for any sign of the soldier. Late that night, the thunder of hoof beats could be heard coming up the river road. The girl peered outside to see a soldier on horseback silhouetted against flashes of lightening. The next morning, no hoof prints could be found to prove an earthly visitor. It is said that on moonless nights, the sound of a galloping horse can still be heard on the old road to Bobo’s Mill.
Continue on Dennis Dairy Road even after it becomes O’Dell Ruff Road. Turn right on Deadfall Road (an appropriate road name for a trip with spooky tales). Turn right on Hwy 121. Near the site of Lester’s Store, on the right, a ghostly vision may or may not be waiting for you. When I first moved to the Silverstreet area, I found myself driving in to Newberry many times late at night. As I approached the intersection of the Old Ninety Six Road, I would sometimes glimpse a stately columned home amid the trees off the road. I was intrigued but could never think about the house during the daytime. When I finally had an opportunity to search, I found that there was no house with columns anywhere near my nighttime vision. Whether it’s a ghostly image or an optical illusion created by a yard light and a grove of trees, it is unclear. Still, on certain dark nights you may see a house that isn’t there.
Continue on Hwy 121. Turn right on Dixie Drive (Hwy 34 Bypass) and right again on
Hwy 395. Turn left on St. Luke’s Church Road and try to catch a glimpse of the old Rock House, the oldest residence in the county, across a pasture to the left. On the right, at the intersection of Fire Tower Road is the Old Dunker Cemetery (at left). There’s something spooky about a cemetery with a mailbox. Turn left on Fire Tower Road and left on Clara Brown Road. Follow this road into downtown Prosperity. Turn right on Main Street and follow it to the right as it jogs onto Hwy 391. Leaving town on the left is the Prosperity Cemetery (below).
Many years ago a strange occurrence was reported at the cemetery. For several nights, a mysterious glow was seen hovering over the trees. The
glow was never satisfactorily explained. Some said it was the glow of moonlight reflected on a large spider web. Others insisted that it had a more supernatural explanation.Return to Main Street in Prosperity and turn right. Continue as it becomes Macedonia Church Road. Turn right on Mt. Pilgrim Church Road. There should be some wonderful fall color along this road. Turn right on Hwy. 76 and head toward Little Mountain. Back in the eighteenth century, the mountain was the scene of a bizarre cult. Though not precisely a ghost story, somehow, the Weber Heresy seems to fit in well with the season.
Some traditions set the story at the mountain, while others place it farther east near Irmo. At any rate, the story revolves around Jakob Weber (a settler from Switzerland by way of Pennsylvania who was an itinerant preacher ), John Smithpeter (a settler from Bavaria by way of Pennsylvania who was driven away from Penn. accused of being a sorcerer) and Frederick Doubber ( a self-proclaimed black preacher who practiced voodoo rituals near Little Mountain). This sounds like it would make a good mini-series. To make a long and complicated story somewhat shorter, the three eventually set themselves up as the Father, Son and Holy Ghost. Together with twelve apostles and Weber’s wife Hanna, a.k.a. the Virgin Mary, they set up a scam to swindle families out of their land grants to acquire enough land in the Dutch Fork to create the “new earth” foretold in Revelation. Smithpeter, who had been essentially excommunicated from the others, was eventually trampled to death between two mattresses and burned.
When the militia finally arrived to settle the scam, Weber, his wife and two “apostles” were taken to Charles Towne for trial. Weber was found guilty of murder and hanged in April 1761. The others were convicted but eventually pardoned.
From Little Mountain head back along Mt. Tabor Church Road (where, of course, you will pass Mt. Tabor Lutheran Church). Turn right on Kibler’s Bridge Road and follow it up to Hwy 773 (St. Paul’s Church Road). When you cross I-26, the granite building of St. Paul’s Lutheran Church will be to the right. It was near St. Paul’s Church that a woman lived in the 1850's whom the people of the community thought was a witch. It seems that a train on the new railroad hit her cow. To exact her revenge, she rubbed fat on the tracks. When the train came back, it stopped at the exact spot, and the witch blessed out the engineer and crew.
Turn left on Jolly Street Road. Enjoy the beautiful Fall scenery and the rolling vistas as you return to Historic Downtown Newberry.
A Trip to Greenwood
(September Road Trip on WKDK)Last month we started with a look at the mileage marker in front of the Old Court House. Another neighboring county seat which is not on the marker is Greenwood which, like Saluda is a relative newcomer as far as counties go. This trip will take a short visit to Greenwood County and back home. Begin your tour on the Square in Historic Downtown Newberry.
From the Square, head west on Main Street. Turn left on Drayton Street and then right on O’Neal Street. When you cross Hwy 121, this becomes Belfast Road. Turn left on Island Ford Road. The “Island Ford” to which the road name is referring was near the site of the dam at Buzzard’s Roost. As the Saluda River split to go around an island, it became shallow enough to ford. Of course, this is all under Lake Greenwood now, but be sure to watch for the other side of Island Ford Road while driving in Greenwood County. Turn right on Hwy 34. Continue through Chappells.
On the right, just before the bridge is the dam at Buzzards Roost, which holds back the waters of the Saluda River to form Lake Greenwood. Completed in 1940, the dam provided jobs and a ready power supply. (If you have time, pull into the fishing access area and take the short walk back to the dam.) Cross the Saluda River into Greenwood County. Established in 1897, Greenwood was made from parts of Edgefield and Abbeville Counties. The name came from the town of Greenwood which was the new county seat. Traditionally an agricultural county, Greenwood become a textile and industrial center in the twentieth century. It is home to Lander University and Piedmont Tech. Continue on Hwy 34 until you get to Ninety Six.
Take a few minutes to visit Ninety Six. Main Street veers off from Hwy 34, and there is a Visitors Center next to the fountain. Riding around the streets of the town, there are many nineteenth century homes, churches (including Ninety Six Presbyterian Church, organized 1774) and unusual brick mill houses (the mill was established in 1902). Ninety Six became a depot on the Columbia-Greenville Railroad in 1852. If you have time, be sure to visit Star Fort National Historic Site. This was the site of two important engagements during the Revolutionary War. The first, in November 1775, was the first Revolutionary War battle south of New England. The second, in 1781, was a British victory probably because of the unusual shape of their fort — an 8-pointed star. No matter which side the Patriots attacked, they ended up in the crossfire between two points.
Return to Hwy 34 and continue left toward Greenwood. A couple of miles out of town, turn right on Cambridge Road. (Cambridge is a point on the map about ten miles below Ninety Six.) Turn right on Emerald Farm Road. Emerald Farm is part of a 450-acre plantation begun in the nineteenth century. Since 1988, soap has been made here from a herd of Saanen goats (a breed of Swiss dairy goats). The complex includes several shops and a display of model trains. Return to Cambridge Road and turn right.
As you come into Greenwood, Cambridge Road becomes East Cambridge Avenue (Business 72). Greenwood takes its name from “Green Wood” the summer home of John McGehee. The house was built in 1823 and the town of Woodville was established nearby in 1837. It became Greenwood about the time the railroad came through in 1852. The color green still plays an important role in the community since Greenwood is known as the “Emerald City.” The city has a population of over 22,000, making it the seventeenth largest city in the state. Coming into town are many fine homes from the early to mid-twentieth century. A lot of the homes are built of red brick and yellow brick. Some will look familiar (which isn’t too surprising since Newberry architect Ernest Summer had an office in Greenwood for a number of years.) At the corner of Main Street on the left are two churches: First Presbyterian on one corner and Main Street Methodist on the next. First Presbyterian, with a Doric portico, was built in 1957 (an earlier wing to the back is reminiscent of Central Methodist in Newberry). Main Street Methodist was built in 1917 in a Gothic style with a square tower. When you pass Main Street, East becomes West (Cambridge Avenue, that is), but it is still Business 72. On the right is St. Andrews Anglican Church. Just beyond the church, turn right into Lander University.
Lander (at left) was founded in 1872 as the Williamston Female Academy (it was in Williamston at the time). In 1904, the school moved to Greenwood and was renamed in honor of its founder, Samuel Lander (1833-1904). The 1904 building (looking a lot like the old buildings at Newberry College) stands in the heart of the campus. The university has grown to 3,000 students. Return to Hwy 72 via Lander Street. Turn right and veer left onto Calhoun Avenue. On the left is the Greenwood Country Club. Turn left on Mathis Street North then left on Lowell Avenue. Founded in 1890, Greenwood Cotton Mill was the first of textile mills and mill villages in Greenwood. Though the mill is being demolished, rows of brick houses still stand. Turn right on Kitson Street.
Turn left on Maxwell Avenue (Hwy 10). Turn right on Edgefield Street. Turn left on Park Avenue. The Greenwood County Court House and the Confederate Monument will be on the left. Turn right on Monument Street. Turn left on Marion Street. On the right, at the corner of Main Street is Resurrection Episcopal Church which was founded in 1910 and built in 1934. Turn right on Main Street. On the right is South Main Street Baptist Church with its hexastyle Ionic portico. Also on the right is Self Memorial Hospital. Founded by former mill president James C. Self in 1955, it is now Greenwood’s largest employer.
Turn left at your next opportunity and come back in on Main Street. Greenwood boasts the widest Main Street in the world. At one point, there were nine sets of railroad tracks coming up the middle of the street. The last track was removed in 1982. On the right is the old Greenwood High School which is now apartments. Downtown Greenwood is known as “Uptown,” presumably because it is on the north end of Main Street. To the left, next to the old movie theater is the Greenwood Museum.
Follow the jog to the right onto Beaudroit Avenue and veer left to stay on Main Street (this will put you right in between the Presbyterian and Methodist churches we saw earlier). Turn left on Cambridge and immediately right on Grace Street (Hwy 221). Stay on Grace Street as it becomes Hwy 254. After the By-pass it will become Cokesbury Road. As you leave town, watch out for Deadfall Road, a familiar Newberry road name. A few miles out on the right is a historical marker for the site of Tabernacle Methodist Church. Following the drive next to the marker will get you near the cemetery which is the final resting place for two Civil War generals: Gen. N. G. Evans and Gen. M. W. Gary. Continue on Cokesbury Road. To the left is Park Seed Company. Founded in 1868, Park Seed is noted for its beautiful experimental gardens which are open to the public.
After visiting Park Seed, turn left on Cokesbury Road. Just beyond Cokesbury Motel, turn left on Asbury Road (there’s a small brown sign for Cokesbury College). Down this road is a collection of antebellum buildings which surround Cokesbury College (at right). Originally called Mt. Ariel (after the church), the village was renamed in honor of Francis Asbury and Thomas Coke, the first two Methodist bishops in America. Toward the end of the road is Mt. Ariel Church, a brick store and the Masonic Female College (circa 1854). Turn right on Hwy 246.
Down the road an intersection and an old store indicate Stoney Point. Further down Hwy 246 is Coronaco. The origin of this name is uncertain, but it may be from an Indian word of unknown meaning. Turn left on Hwy 72. Cross Lake Greenwood (the Saluda River) into Laurens County. Turn right on Main Street (Hwy 39) to visit Cross Hill. According to tradition this community received its name from Indian paths leading to the fish dams on the Broad River (near Carlisle) and similar ones on the Saluda River. The paths crossed at the hill. Turn right on Liberty Springs Road to visit Liberty Springs Presbyterian Church, which was founded in 1787. Surrounding the church is a large cemetery with many traditional Newberry County names. Return to Main Street and turn right. After the Confederate Monument, bear to the left on Hwy 560.
Turn right on Hwy 56. To the right is Belfast. Begun in the 1780's, this handsome brick house was enlarged in the early nineteenth century. Cross into Newberry County. Turn left on Belfast Road and return to Historic Downtown Newberry.
Summer Meanderings
(July Road Trip on WKDK)It’s the “Dog Days” of Summer and it is hot. Even on the rare occasion that the temperature doesn’t soar above 90 degrees (it does happen from time to time), it’s still hot. It’s a good time to crank up the air conditioning and take a road trip through the county. Begin your tour on the Square in Historic Downtown Newberry.
On the north side of the Square, where Delamater’s is today, originally stood a large locust tree which played an important role in the formative years of Newberry’s history. With its branches spreading across a corner of the Square, it was a popular gathering place outside the court house. The locust tree was cut down in 1853 to make way for the Newberry Bank. This time of year I’m sure we still miss its shade. Head west on Main Street.
Turn right on Drayton Street. On the left is Willowbrook Park (photo at left). Part of the mill village at West End, this park has been a favorite place for generations of Newberrians. Running right through the middle is the north fork of Scott’s Creek. In ages past, a popular summer pastime involved neighborhood children damming the creek to form a temporary swimming hole. Turn left on Crosson Street. Behind Newberry Middle School is West End Cemetery. Although the mills were designed to be distinct communities, West End is the only one of the Newberry mill villages to have its own cemetery. Turn right on O’Neall Street (which becomes Belfast Road after Hwy 121). Somewhere between here and the intersection of Brown Chapel Road is the site of Springfield. Originally known as Kelly’s Store, this was the plantation of John Belton O’Neall.
Turn left on Spearman Road. Turn left on Stoney Battery Road. Beyond Harold Bowers Road on the right is the Reagin-Crosson House, circa 1840. Note the varge-board decoration in the eaves. Turn right on Hwy 121. Turn left on Old Ninety Six Road. Turn left on Longshore Road. Along this road is a grove of pecan trees which marks the site of the old Longshore House. After the pecans, it becomes a cedar-lined dirt road. At St. Mary’s AME Church, turn left on St Mary’s Church Road. Watch out for fields of corn and sunflowers. Turn left on Dennis Dairy Road. Cross Bush River. Ahead on the left is the Quaker Cemetery. The Quakers formed an important part of Newberry County from 1770 until about 1822. By that time most had moved west and only the cemetery and family names remained.
Turn right on Mendenhall Road. Across the creek, near the top of the hill on the left, the Ramage Cemetery can be seen through the trees. Also on the left is Carter & Holmes with their greenhouses of exotic plants. Turn right on Hwy 395. To the right is the Hartford Community Center which was originally Hartford School. In 1870, the old Universalist Church (which had its roots back in the Dunker Church) was used as a community school. In 1924, the familiar wooden building was completed. On the left is the Paysinger-Lester House, circa 1915. Down the road to the right is the old Buzzardt House, circa 1840, with its end chimneys, massive transom and sidelights at the front door. Turn left on Cannon Swamp Road. This road is running nearly parallel with Bush River. Turn left on Schumpert Mill Road. At the end of the road to the right is the Schumpert-Cousins House, circa 1895, with its elaborate Victorian gingerbread. Turn right on Clara Brown Road (as you get nearer to Prosperity this becomes Brown Street). Just after a bend in the road as you approach Prosperity stands the H. C. Mosely House on the left. This impressive Victorian home with its two story front porch was built in 1880 by a Prosperity merchant. Directly across the road stand the ruins of the Brown House.
Turn right on Main Street and enjoy downtown Prosperity with its stores and restaurants around the square. As you leave town, Main Street becomes Macedonia Church Road. A few miles out of town on the left is the Fairview Community Center in the old Fairview School. Though not named Fairview until 1894, a school was established here in 1884. The present building was constructed in 1917. At the end of the road, right next to the lake, is Macedonia Lutheran Church. When the church was established in 1847, this was part of Lexington County. The present picturesque church was built in 1914. When the waters of Lake Murray began to rise in 1928, all but one of the roads leading to the church were submerged. Turn around at Macedonia Church. Turn left on Edgewater Drive. Near the end of the road on the left is the old Higgins House. Built in the early nineteenth century at Higgins Ferry (near Hwy 121), the house was moved to the lake and restored. Turn around and return to Macedonia Church Road. Turn left. Turn right on Wheeland Road.
Cross Camping Creek as it widens toward the lake. Driving around this time of year, two flowering trees with an interesting connection are visible along the roadside and in yards. These are Crape Myrtles and Mimosas. Both grow well in South Carolina, but neither are native to this continent. Both were also introduced by Andre Micheaux, a French botanist who operated a nursery near Charleston in the eighteenth century. Usually Mimosas bloom earlier in the season, but the cold snap and the dry weather have had an effect. Crepe Myrtles, though still colorful, have also been hurt by the same factors. Mimosas were imported from Persia and Crape Myrtles from the Mediterranean coast.
On a bend in the road to the right is a Sease Family Cemetery. Across the road to the left is an old plantation house with a stone chimney on the end. Turn right on Mill Road. Approaching Little Mountain watch out for more sunflowers (at right) and a nice view of the mountain. As you get into town on the left is Reunion Park, the setting for the Little Mountain Reunion. Begun in August of 1882, the reunion is the oldest folk festival in the state. Turn right on Main Street. Turn left on Pomaria Street. Turn left on Koon Trestle Road. Turn right on Berly Road. This is a good road trip road. It follows an old trace through the woods. The dry and dusty road really fosters an appreciation for air conditioning. Cross a branch of Crims Creek on a wooden bridge and arrive in downtown Pomaria.
Cross Hwy 176 and turn right on Main Street (after the bend, this becomes Rest Street). Turn left on Folk Street. On the left is the old Pomaria School. Begun in 1913, this school was enlarged as many of the smaller community schools were consolidated into it. Pomaria was also a victim of consolidation, for, in 1958, classes began to move to Mid-Carolina. Turn right on Holloway Street. Turn right on Hwy 176. On the hill to the left is the site of the Eichelberger House. In 1831 the Lutheran Synod established a seminary and academy at this site. Three years later, the school was moved to Lexington. This facility was the ancestor of the seminary in Columbia and Newberry College. Cross Cannons Creek.
Bear left on Hwy 219. Turn left on Clayton Church Road. Clayton Memorial Universalist Church is on the left. It is the only one surviving of four Universalist churches which were once in Newberry County. Named for Rev. Daniel Bragg Clayton, the church stands on land which was set aside for a Halfacre family cemetery. Down the road on the right, looking across a field, you can see the portico of the Gallman House (circa 1860). Turn right on Halfacre Road. Off to the left is the DeWalt-Gray-Gallman Cemetery surrounded by a low granite wall. Turn left on Hwy 219 and return to Historic Downtown Newberry.
A Drive Around Newberry
(aired in May on WKDK)Begin your tour on the Square in Historic Downtown Newberry. On the Caldwell Street side of the Square is a row of brick buildings completed in 1884. Two of these still feature their original corbeled brickwork laid in elaborate patterns across the facade. When they were built, they were known as Mollohon Row. The origin of the name is unclear. An area in the northeast part of the county bore that name in the 18th century. It was notorious for its rowdy inhabitants. Mollohon Row was noted for its taverns. There must be a connection there.
Head east on Main Street and turn left on College Street. Just after Newberry College is Rosemont Cemetery. You may wish to stop by and visit the residents of Newberry past. When you reach the intersection of Hwy 76 (sometimes called Devil’s Crossroads) you will be near the site of Blackjack Tavern which appears on some of the old maps of Newberry. Turn left on Hwy 76 and go over the new bridge. Turn right on Lumberyard Road. Turn left on Old Whitmire Hwy. In the woods to the left after Folk Road is Tea Table Rock, where ladies of the area delayed Banastre Tarleton sufficiently to turn the tide of the American Revolution. On Franklin Road is the trail head for the Palmetto Trail. Turn left on Beth Eden Road. Beth Eden Lutheran Church is on the right. This church was established in 1843 as Dutch Fork families began to move westward. On down the road to the left is the Renwick-Carlisle House which was built circa 1852. On the right, at the corner of Monument Road is the monument which stands in memory of the men killed when two B-25's collided on February 5, 1943. Turn right on Monument Road.
Monument Road is a favorite of road trips. The wildlife and natural beauty of the forest combine with the rough character of the road to make a very picturesque drive. This year’s late cold snap means that many trees still have their bright green new growth from spring. Others have the deep
green of summer and the combination is stunning. Unfortunately, the dry weather also means that natural waterways are low and wildflowers are a little scarce. Watch for Queen Anne’s Lace, daisies and vetch to dominate the roadside. Also in bloom are the orange daylilies and the white flowers of yucca. Though not always the case, yucca often marks the site of family cemeteries. Look out for wildlife while crossing the three one lane bridges over Indian Creek.
Turn left on Old Newberry Hwy. This is the Whitmire side of the Old Whitmire Highway. Turn right on Hwy 66. On the left is Whitmire Community School. Just beyond it on the right is Mollohon. This house was begun by Col. Benjamin Herndon prior to 1800. The massive Doric portico was added circa 1850. Take a few minutes to drive around Whitmire and see the
improvements to the downtown and the many old homes. Return to Hwy 66 west and turn on Little Egypt Road. The exotic name of this road comes from a band of Gypsies that camped nearby. Old Ninety Six Road crosses. This short road is a remnant of the an old road which crossed Newberry on the way to Ninety Six and beyond. Turn left on Colonial Drive. On the right is Jasper Hall (photo at right). This Greek revival home was built circa 1857 by Dr. James Epps, a wealthy cotton planter. Turn right on Hwy 121. Turn left on Hwy 176.
Turn left on Molly’s Rock Road. After passing Molly’s Rock Park, the road follows closely the old road trace for the Buncombe Road. This was part of the Wilderness Trail which lead settlers down into South Carolina from Virginia, Maryland and Pennsylvania. The “rock” at Molly’s Rock is off the road to the left. At the end of the road, turn left on Hwy 176 and then left on Mt. Bethel-Garmany Road. Like many roads on these trips, Mt. Bethel-Garmany follows closely to its original trace — the deep-rutted lanes which passed for roads in the eighteenth century. Often the trace can be seen on either side of the present road. Turn right on Mt. Pleasant Road.
Turn left on Hwy 34. (Don’t think of it as a highway. Think of it as the road to Ashford’s Ferry.) Turn right on Livingston Road. At the corner stands the Wicker House, circa 1835. It is built like many of the early farmhouses in Newberry, a single room deep with end chimneys and an ell of additions. Turn left on Graham Cemetery Road. Down the road on the left is the Graham Cemetery, one of the many family cemeteries in the county. Turn right on Graham Road. At the intersection is the Graham House. Built in the early nineteenth century it is a good example of a small farm house. Turn left on New Hope Road. Down the road on the left is New Hope Methodist Church with its unusual twin spires. This congregation was organized in 1795 about two miles from the present site. The church has been in this location since 1831. Turn right on Broad River Road. This old road closely follows Broad River. When the Broad River was dammed at Parr Shoals, the water back-filled into Heller’s and Cannon’s Creeks. Today, these two “fills” are recreational areas.
Turn right on Peak Road. Turn left on Hope Station Road. On the right, beside St. Paul AME Church is Hope School, a Rosenwald school which is currently being renovated as a Community Center. Down the road is St. Johns Lutheran Church, the oldest Lutheran church in the county. On the right is the cemetery and the old (circa 1809) church. The newer sanctuary (circa 1950) is on the left. Turn right on Hwy 176. Down the road on the right stands the Summer-Huggins House at Pomaria Plantation (circa 1826). The name of this plantation, the home of a nursery during the mid-nineteenth century, is the source of the name of the town. Turn left on Hwy 202. As you approach Little Mountain, this becomes Pomaria Street. Little Mountain was established as a depot along the Columbia, Newberry & Laurens Railroad in 1890, although the area has been settled since the 1750's. Turn right on Main Street (Hwy 76). Turn left on Wheeland Road.
Turn right on Macedonia Church Road. On the right will be the old Fairview School. Though not named Fairview until 1894, this school was established in 1884. The present building was constructed in 1917 and now serves as a community center. Turn left on Stoney Hill Road. Turn right on Hwy 391. Visit Prosperity Cemetery. The cemetery began as the churchyard to the Prosperity A. R. P. Church which was founded in 1802. As the community of Frog Level (Prosperity) grew, it became the town cemetery. Turn left on Church Street. As you leave town, the road becomes Counts Sausage Road. When you cross Bush River, it actually looks wide enough to be a river (despite the drought). Turn right on Hwy 395.
Turn left on Deadfall Road. This is part of the Utopia community. On the left will be Hannah A.M.E. Church and directly across from it Hannah School. Hannah School was built in the 1930's as a Rosenwald school. Cross Beaverdam Creek. Near the creek is the site of a school which was established in 1880. Tradition has it that students at the school were inspired by Thomas Moore’s Utopia to name the community after the fictitious place. Off the road to the left on a bend in the road will be the old Cannon House, a farmhouse built circa 1870. On the right is New Chapel Methodist Church which is sporting a brand new steeple. Originally established closer to the Saluda River, the congregation moved to this site in 1833. (I guess that makes the other site old New Chapel.) The present church was built in 1879. Across Hwy 121 is Deadfall Crossroads. Here (the intersection of Werts, Deadfall and Elisha Church Roads and now Hwy 121) once stood a tavern where a clandestine between John C. Calhoun and Job Johnstone occurred. They reportedly wrote the Nullification Papers in the tavern. Turn left on Main Street (Hwy 34). Silverstreet was established in the 1850's as a railroad depot on the Columbia and Greenville Railroad. If you haven’t been through the town lately, take a moment to drive down a few side streets to see the Lutheran Church, the old school auditorium and the residences. Turn right on Spearman Road.
Before the roads were straightened into highways, Spearman Road was the principle route between Newberry and Silverstreet. On the left is Reuben Elementary School. Watch out for cows on the way home. After all, June is Dairy Month. Turn right on Belfast Road and return to Historic Downtown Newberry.
Return from Charleston
(aired in April on WKDK)It’s been a long trip and, when we last met, we were on the beach at the Isle of Palms. Now it’s time to kick the sand out of your shoes, make sure the seashells won’t smell all the way home and head back home. I know it’s tempting just to take the interstate and be home in no time, but there’s a whole realm of unexplored territory along the Santee-Cooper River system, and that’s where we’re headed today. The initial plan was to follow the historical markers, but there were too many. We’ll have to skip a few if we’re going to make it home in time for supper.
From Palm Blvd., turn onto Hwy 517 and take the Isle of Palms Connector. The view from this bridge is stunning: marshes, tidal creeks, birds and the Cooper River Bridge in the distance. Turn right on Hwy 17 North. Up the road on the right (opposite the turn for Boone Hall) is Christ Church Parish Church. This Episcopal church was founded in 1706 as part of the Parish Church Act. The original wooden church burned in 1726 and was replaced in that year by a brick one. Although it has been subsequently burned by the British in 1782 and Union Army in 1865, the original walls still stand. The church was restored in 1874. A newer church was built across the cemetery from the old sanctuary to meet the tremendous amount of growth experienced in the past few years. Just beyond the church is the sign for Seven Mile Community. All through this area are roadside stands for Sweetgrass Baskets. Turn left on Hwy 41.
We’ll pass historical markers for Laurel Hill Plantation, Phillip’s Community and Wando Pottery before we reach the Wando River and cross the drawbridge into Berkeley County. At this point, the river is a wide expanse of beautiful blue water. Off to the left is the road to Cainhoy which leads to the Parish Church of St. Thomas and St. Dennis, Middleburg Plantation and Pompion Hill Chapel, but that’s an adventure in itself. Staying on Hwy 41, there are pine forests, saw palmetto and myrtle. This is part of the Francis Marion National Forest. The Long Leaf Pines have grown a lot since Hurricane Hugo in 1989. Bear left on Hwy 402. The Huger Recreational Area for the National Forest is to the left. Periodically along the road there is a tunnel created by the interlacing branches of Live Oaks. On the left at the railroad crossing at Cordesville is an old-time store. Turn left on Sawmill Road.
Turn left on Dr. Evans Road (turning right at this point would eventually lead to Mepkin Abbey) and right into the Heritage Preserve. On the right is Strawberry Chapel (photo at left), the chapel at ease for St. John’s Parish, Berkeley County. Built in 1725, it is the only intact eighteenth century building remaining in Childsbury. There is a beautiful churchyard surrounding the old church. At the end of the road is a kiosk with information on the Heritage Preserve and the old town of Childsbury. James Child laid out the town’s 185 lots on 100 acres of his plantation and reserved lots for a chapel, a free school, a college and other public squares. The school was established in 1733, but there is no evidence that the college was ever built. After wandering around the site of Childsbury, return to Cordesville (about 5 miles) and turn left on Hwy 402.
At Biggins Road on the left are the ruins of Biggin Church which was the parish church of St. John’s Berkeley. The original church was built in 1712. That church burned in a forest fire in 1775 and was restored, only to be burned again by Col. Coates of the British Army in 1781 and again restored. The church burned again in a forest fire in 1886 and was left as a ruin. Gen. William Moultrie and Henry Laurens were among the vestrymen of this parish. At the traffic light turn left on Hwy 52/17-A. Cross the Dennis C. Bishop bridge over the Tail Race Canal. Old Santee Canal State Park and the Berkeley County Museum are off to the left. Bear right on Hwy 17-A. Turn left on Carolina Avenue to get to the business district of Moncks Corner.
The present town of Moncks Corner is located about a mile from the eighteenth century plantation of Thomas Monck, for whom the town was named. It was an important crossroad where the Cherokee Path intersected the Charleston Road. In 1856, the Northeastern Railroad established a depot here. In 1895, it became the seat of Berkeley County. Turn right on Main Street (Hwy 6). On the left, the Berkeley Adult Education Center is located in the old High School (circa 1929). Cross 17-A. On the left is the Dr. William H. Lacey Memorial Park with a stream and picnic tables. When Hwy 6 forks to left, bear right to visit Pinopolis.
Like Summerville, Pinopolis was a popular summer community set among the healthy pine trees. Now nestled along the edge of Lake Moultrie, the community has some older Victorian homes, nice churches and new homes. On the left is Pinopolis Methodist Church, a frame building with stained glass windows and a belfry. Further to the left is Trinity Episcopal Church which was established in 1875. There have been some alterations and additions, but old church is still standing. With pines and Spanish moss and views to the lake, Pinopolis is really a pretty spot. When you run out of road, turn around and head back. Bear right on Hwy 315. On the left is St. John’s Baptist Church, founded in 1851. The present church was built in 1881 and has a nice cemetery. When you get to Hwy 6, turn right.
At Cross, bear right on Hwy 6. On the left is a historical marker for Moss Grove Plantation. By 1840, this was one of the most productive cotton plantations in Berkeley County. The present house was built in 1880 by Adam Cross who farmed the property and operated a store, cotton gin, grist mill, rice mill, saw mill and turpentine still. Down the road to the right is the Cross Post Office where Adam Cross also served as the first Postmaster. Bear left on Hwy 6. On the right is a historical marker for the Cherokee Path. This path extended from the Cherokee towns in present day Tennessee to Charleston and was in use prior to 1730. This trade and transportation route passed near here and played an important role in the expansion of the North American frontier. Hwy 45 merges in. Cross into Orangeburg County.
On the right is a small park commemorating the Battle of Eutaw Springs. A monument placed by the D.A.R., some historical markers and an interpretive kiosk help tell the story of this bloody battle of the American Revolution which took place near this site on September 8, 1781. The waters of Lake Marion cover most of the battle site as well as the springs themselves which were openings to an underground river system. At the edge of the lake is an outcropping of Santee Limestone. Estimated to be about 40,000,000 years old this stone serves as the underlying bedrock for the region and often contains marine fossils. It is used in the production of Portland cement in nearby factories.
The town of Eutawville was settled in the 1840's as a summer refuge for Santee River plantation owners. The town was chartered in 1888 as a depot on the railroad. On the right, coming into town is the Episcopal Church of the Epiphany which was established circa 1760. The present sanctuary was built in 1849. Eutawville also has a trail head for the Palmetto Trail. Drive around the town along highways 6 and 45, but continue along Hwy 6 to continue the trip. As we travel toward Vance and Santee, there are actually a few hills appearing in the relatively flat landscape. Approaching Santee on the left is the Santee-Cooper Country Visitors Center. It’s a good place to stop and find out what is available in the region. It also has great facilities. Santee has every motel and restaurant imaginable. It also has a lot of golf courses. Cross I-95 and continue on Hwy 6.
We will pass a point on the map called Parler on our way to Elloree. Founded in 1886, Elloree has nice old homes and churches. Cleveland Street (Hwy 47) is the main street. On the left just beyond the intersection of Hwy 47 is the Elloree Heritage Museum. As we leave town, cotton fields begin to be seen. Watch out for family cemeteries and old farm houses. There are some really nice old farm houses along this road, although not all of them are restored or occupied. Cross into Calhoun County. Established in 1908 from parts of Lexington and Orangeburg Counties, Calhoun is the second smallest county in the state. It was, of course, named in honor of John C. Calhoun.
On the left is a grove of Paulownia trees. When I passed by earlier this spring they were in bloom, but they are still impressive — tall slender trees in a densely-packed grove. On the left at Creston is St. Matthews Lutheran Church. Though the present church was built circa 1900, the congregation dates back to 1737. The old cemetery on the side is “swept.” Prior to the twentieth century (and even later) most yards were swept and kept free from grass. Continuing along the road, high embankments suggest that we are following pretty close to the original road trace. It’s getting downright hilly in places. Welcome to St. Matthews, the county seat of Calhoun County. Founded in the 1840's as Lewisville, this was a depot on the South Carolina Railroad. The name was changed in 1876. Coming into town on Bridge Street, St. Paul’s Methodist Church (built in 1916) is on the left. The town is laid out along a grid at the intersection of Highways 6 and 601 with the railroad running right through the middle and crossed by bridges at the main streets. Take a few minutes to drive around town and see the beautiful homes and churches. The County Court House (circa 1913) is on F. R. Huff Drive. There is a lot of road work on Hwy 601 and some of the bridges are closed. Leaving town on Hwy 6, First Baptist Church is on the left. Just beyond St. Matthews, turn right on Hwy 176 (Old State Road) and stay on it.
Hwy 176 takes us into the Sand Hills with long leaf pines and wide vistas of the ridges at the fall line. On the right as we approach Sandy Run is Sandy Run Lutheran Church. Lutherans were worshiping on a site